Repiping a house: what happens, in what order, and how long your water is off

The short version of a repipe

A whole-house repipe replaces the water supply lines that carry hot and cold water to every fixture. The job follows a set order: an inspection to define the scope, a choice of pipe material, routing the new lines through attics and walls, connecting each fixture, pressure testing, switching the house over, and patching the openings. How long it takes depends on the size of the house, the number of fixtures, how the lines can be routed and the material chosen, so a good plumber gives you a schedule for your specific house rather than a general number.

Homeowners who ask us about repiping are rarely starting from zero. They have had a second or third leak, or the water has started to look or taste different, and they want to know whether patching is still worth it. That is the right question to ask.

Signs the house is ready for new pipe

Our repipes page names frequent plumbing failures as one of the clearest signs, because pipes wear out and corrode with age. When one failure follows another, each repair buys less time than the last.

Age alone is not a reason to repipe, but it is a reason to pay attention. In older neighborhoods around Dallas, many houses still have their original supply lines, and some have had partial updates over the years that mix materials. A plumber who looks at the exposed pipe at the water heater, under sinks and in the attic can usually tell you what you have and how it is holding up.

• Repeated leaks, especially in different parts of the house
• Low water pressure at several fixtures
• Discolored water or a change in taste
• Water bills that rise without explanation
• Visible corrosion on exposed pipe and fittings
• A slab leak in a home where the rest of the pipe is the same age

Repair or repipe: how to decide

One leak in pipe that is otherwise sound is a repair. Our leak repair work often means replacing a worn section, sealing a minor leak or tightening a loose fitting, and that is the right answer when the rest of the system has life left in it. The case for repiping builds when the problems are spread out, when the pipe itself is the cause, and when every repair means opening another wall or another part of the floor.

If the latest leak was under the slab, read my guide on how to tell if you have a slab leak. It explains why a second slab leak in the same house often changes the math in favor of rerouting or repiping rather than breaking the concrete again.

Cost over time is the honest way to compare. Add up what the last few repairs cost, including the drywall, flooring and the days spent waiting for a plumber, and set that against the price of a repipe. When the repairs are coming faster and each one opens another part of the house, the comparison usually becomes clear on its own. When the house has had one leak in many years, patching it is the sensible call, and a good plumber will tell you so.

PEX or copper

The material is the biggest single choice in a repipe. Copper is rigid, long proven and more expensive. PEX is flexible plastic tubing that bends around corners and can be pulled through walls in long runs with fewer fittings. Our repipes page describes PEX as a cheaper but equally durable option compared with copper, and notes that repiping the same 1,500-square-foot home would cost twice as much using copper.

Part of that difference is labor, not just material. Rigid pipe needs more fittings and more wall and floor openings to install, and every opening adds work and patching. Flexible tubing can often be fed through smaller access holes. Some homeowners still prefer copper for their own reasons, and that is a fine choice. We lay out both with a price so you can decide.

The job from first visit to final patch

Every repipe starts with a thorough inspection. Our repipes page puts it this way: the inspection determines the scope of the work and the right materials. From there, the sequence is predictable, which is what makes the disruption manageable.

• Inspection: we trace the existing lines, count the fixtures, check the water heater connections and shutoff valves, and look at attic and wall access
• Plan and price: you get the route, the material options and a written job price before anything is opened
• Protection: floors, furniture and work areas are covered before work begins
• Routing: new lines are run, usually through the attic and down inside walls, through small access openings
• Connections: each fixture, the water heater and the main shutoff are tied into the new system
• Testing: the new lines are pressure tested before the house is switched over and the walls are closed
• Switchover and cleanup: the old lines are disconnected and abandoned, the water is turned back on, and the work areas are cleaned

What decides how long the water is off

I will not give you a number of days on this page, because it would be a guess. What I can tell you is what moves it. The size of the house and the number of fixtures matter most, since each bathroom, the kitchen, the laundry, the water heater and the outdoor faucets all need new lines. Access is next: a house with a roomy attic is faster than one with a low roofline or finished spaces above the rooms. Material matters too, since flexible tubing goes in faster than rigid pipe.

The good news is that much of the work happens while the old system is still running. The new lines are run and tested alongside the old ones, and the water is shut off for the connections and the switchover. Ask your plumber exactly when the water will be off each day and whether you will have water in the evenings. A good plan answers that before work starts, not after.

Questions to settle before you sign

A repipe is a big enough job that the contract deserves a careful read. In Texas, plumbing is a licensed trade overseen by the Texas State Board of Plumbing Examiners, and its public license search lets you confirm the company's license before you commit. Then make sure the written scope answers the practical questions, because the disagreements that follow a repipe almost always come from something that was never written down.

• Which material, and which fixtures, valves and connections are included
• Who patches the drywall, and whether texture and paint are part of it
• Whether a permit and inspection apply, and who arranges them
• When the water will be off each day, and for roughly how long
• What the warranty covers on labor and materials, in writing
• How the house will be protected and cleaned at the end of each day

Living in the house during the work

Many families stay home during a repipe. Plan for crews in the house during working hours, some noise, and a few rooms with openings in the drywall until patching is done. Move valuables and fragile items out of the rooms where lines will be run, and clear access to the attic hatch, the water heater and under sinks. If you have pets, plan where they will be while doors are open.

Before the job, ask whether the plan includes replacing the shutoff valves under sinks and behind toilets. Old valves often fail when they are finally turned, and a repipe is the cheapest time to replace them. It is also a good moment to consider a smart shutoff valve that closes the main supply when it detects a leak.

After the pipe: patching, inspection and the attic

Once the new system is tested and running, the access openings are closed. Ask before you sign who is responsible for drywall patching and texture, and whether painting is included. Some plumbers patch, some leave it to the homeowner, and the answer belongs in the written scope. If you end up handling it yourself, this drywall specialist's guide on making a drywall repair disappear is a useful read.

Lines that run through an attic need protection from heat and cold. In North Texas, a hard freeze can reach attic pipe, so insulation along the new runs matters. My guide on keeping pipes from freezing in a winter storm covers what to do before the next one. Where your city requires a permit and inspection for repiping, make sure the job includes it and that you receive the paperwork.

Getting a repipe quote from us

When you call us about repiping, we start with the inspection. The technician walks the house with you, looks at the existing pipe and access, and asks about the problems you have had. You get the options, typically PEX and copper, and sometimes a targeted repair or reroute if a full repipe is not needed yet, each with a job price. Our repipes page offers free upfront pricing, and the price is set by the job, not the hour.

Our repiping workmanship is guaranteed. We serve homes across Dallas, the Park Cities and the northern suburbs, and we call ahead to confirm arrival times throughout the job. If you are still comparing companies, my list of questions to ask before hiring a plumber includes the extra questions a big job deserves.

Questions people ask me